Boxwood Cafe

May 2010 Update: Sadly, this restaurant has now closed.

Boxwood Cafe is a Gordon Ramsey restaurant attached to The Berkeley Hotel in Knightsbridge.

I chose to visit as I loved Prêt-à-Portea Afternoon Tea at The Berkeley and because I had never dined at a Gordon Ramsey restaurant. I took a friend who adores all he does but who I also knew would be honest.

From the Knightsbridge entrance, you discover a restaurant with different dining levels and central stairs. The top level has natural light, the next is the bar and seating, and the lowest level is the most spacious with tables suitable for large parties as well as corner sofas for couples. There is also a private dining room at the bottom which was in use when I visited.

I had heard there was some sort of snobbery about where you get seated but I can assure you guests at each level seemed content. (Note, Boxwood Cafe is a popular celebrity restaurant so don't be surprised if you dine with the stars here.)

I had been told the Boxwood was a Ramsey take on a New York cafe and if that's what they have there then I am very jealous. The decor is stylish but remains understated without excessive opulence. The walls have silver and brushed metal leaf squares and the dark olive seating is complemented by the large black and white framed photographs.

It feels stylish and exclusive yet (with a little planning) it's not hard to get a table here. "Beautifully anonymous," was how my friend described the feel and that seemed apt.

The tables are well-spaced and the lighting was not 'canteen' harsh as often is the case at lunchtime. Gentle background music meant guests were relaxed and not afraid to speak. We did notice the rumble of the nearby tube line occasionally (we were on the lowest level) but it wasn't a concern.

We were offered the Set Lunch Menu, A la Carte Menu and the Tasting Menu but when I explained I'm vegetarian another two menus arrived: Vegetarian A la Carte and Vegetarian Tasting Menu. This was a pleasant surprise as Gordon Ramsay has been vocal about his disdain towards vegetarians but with further research it seems Ramsey believes vegetarians are actually not well-treated at most restaurants and he believes they should be offered exciting food too. Well hurrah for that I say and my only criticism then is that is was hard to choose between so many tempting options. If you find yourself in the same situation my recommendation is to choose the Tasting Menu as you get to try five dishes plus dessert, which is what I chose and my friend chose the standard Tasting Menu.

Service

As good as you'd hope for and more. The staff are friendly and courteous and were able to make helpful menu suggestions. They were intuitive but the service was not intrusive as our water glasses were replenished without asking and always in time.

Food

Okay, this is what you really want to know, isn't it? Does the food live up to the hype? Are Gordon Ramsey restaurants as good as you'd heard? In a word, 'yes'. Yes, the food is beautiful and delicious. There were such inconceivable taste combinations I was consistently and pleasantly surprised.

The creamed sweetcorn soup was served in a child-size teacup and saucer to be eaten with a teaspoon! It may sound odd but it was actually quite delightful and the soup was outstanding.

My potato, endive, poached egg & mustard dressing was great although I would have preferred a shallower dish to reduce cutlery clanking. The Pressed foie gras, confit duck and potato terrine was salty and complemented the sweet grape chutney. The presentation was first class and the lightly toasted brioche was just that; still soft inside.

Pea, broad bean and barrel-aged feta cheese salad came with watercress, mint and other greenery. The broad beans were small, green and flavorsome.

Seared loin of yellow fin tuna was a concerning choice for my companion as she wouldn't normally choose tuna. And that's another recommendation for the Tasting Menu as it encourages you to try something outside of your normal comfort zone. The tuna was a dark fresh pink color and the sesame, soya and shallot dressing darkened it further. I was told the tuna actually tasted like a steak, in a good way.

My Rotolo of ricotta and artichokes with cherry tomato dressing was a rolled pasta dish and was warm and filling. The Parmesan shavings and watercress were excellent garnish.

The Salt Marsh lamb neck fillet had been braised for four hours and the herb gnocchi was firm and tasty although the peas were slightly undercooked. My Braised Italian lentils with girolle mushrooms, baby turnips and spring greens was salty but enjoyable.

We were treated to a pre-dessert to prepare us for the sweetness of dessert. The pre-dessert was a small glass with peach compote, black cherry ice-cream and toasted, sweetened sliced almond, decorated with dark chocolate shavings. And yes, we were left suitably prepared!

Dessert was Eton Mess and this classic British dish of strawberries, meringue and cream was a perfect way to end a stunning meal.

We decided to have a pot of tea before leaving and it was accompanied by fresh caramel dark chocolate truffles. They honestly think of everything at Boxwood Cafe!

The head chef is Australian Simon Gregory, working under Executive Chef Stuart Gillies who has overseen the restaurant for Gordon Ramsey since it opened in 2003. As it wasn't too busy when we finished (we stayed over 3 hours for lunch!) we were lucky enough to meet Simon and found him to be confident, welcoming and adept at talking to customers. He joked with his staff and enthused about favorite restaurants as well as plans for the Boxwood Cafe.

Conclusion

I can't recommend the Boxwood Cafe more highly as the food is outstanding, the presentation impeccable and the service excellent. The taste combinations are incredible and the Tasting Menu is a must. And we didn't even get onto the wine menu...

Boxwood Cafe Website.

_{As is common in the travel industry, the writer was provided with complimentary meals for the purpose of reviewing those services. While it has not influenced this review, About.com believes in full disclosure of all potential conflicts of interest. For more information, see our ethics policy.}